Cairo, UAR
December 12, 1960
Peg Allmond
470 23rd Ave.
San Francisco 21, Calif.
My Dear Peg:
I have been in this far-away land for over three months and will probably be here two months more. I hope this finds you well and I assume that you may be interested in some of the contents herein.
Primarily I came to this country with a number of missions. Most of these missions were snubbed in the United States, where I could hardly get an interview. But my experiences in Oriental countries had been so totally different one could not help wondering whether the Arabs would greet me as had the Japanese, Thai, Burmese, Pakistanis and Indians, or greet me as the Americans, or as the Europeans who not only snub but sneer.
I can only say here briefly that I entered this country as a VIP, my treatment here has been as a VIP but my “success” has been far out of line with any portion of my earlier career. For not only have all my proposals been accepted by Egyptians or Arabs but the government has commended me and the whole force of the American Embassy is behind me. Not only that, but at this writing the San Rafael Independent and Chet Huntley have asked for news. I have known Chet at two different periods in Hollywood, the first when he was a nobody, the second when he was becoming somebody, and now, of course, when he is tops. I have also had articles in the daily press, in Arabic.
While I keep a diary, I send letters chiefly to those periods who are particularly concerned with events of the day. Only one of these (Audley Nichols of San Rafael) is in “the profession,” but a few letters receive letters mostly as personal friends.
Cairo is a wonderful city to me for two quite different orders of reasons. The one, of course, has been the gratification of the treatment received at all levels. At times this is hard to take, and I will not write further on it here. Only it becomes a question as to what degree of “fame” is achieved here, which may be effective when I return. I have no intention to bother with other persons for it would seem I am “growing” in effectiveness and that is important to me and may also be a deciding factor in where I live afterwards.
The second series of reasons why Cairo is wonderful is that you find it a series of cities of all periods from 960 to 1960 both inclusive. It is very hard to get an over-all and it is not necessary to got an over-all as Los Angeles, Chicago, New York, London or Tokyo. In a few respects it resembles Nara, Japan, in that the life of earlier ages with arts, architecture and what not are preserved. But it also includes the arts, architecture and lives of intermediary periods. So that when one walks about, which I do a good deal, one enters into different centuries, so to speak. This type of adventure is far from exhausted.
The most interesting part of the city, outside my profession, is the Khan-i-Khalili Bazaar. There all kinds of folk arts are preserved. I have sent and may send a few things to Gump’s and to the Rudolph Schaeffer School of Design. I have also sent essences of perfumes to the Favermam Drug Co. on Larkin & Turk. I am unable to do more as all moneys for all purposes come out of my own pocket (and actually I am accomplishing what some rather vociferous corporations are crying for money for and not doing at all).
The bazaar regions are of two types. In the one type you see the segregated professors as cloth merchants, goldsmiths, silversmiths, leather workers, ironworkers, etc. occupying whole streets or even districts. In the other arrangement, there is more general merchandising. I ran into both of them today.
I am in need of shoes. There are at least four types of footwear here: modern shoes, mosque shoes, folk-shoes and slippers or sandals, which do not have leather bottoms. As Pakistan has both better heavy shoes and folk shoes than this country, I want to get the mosque shoe type. This can be slipped on and off easily and as the mosques represent the best type of historical edifices, everybody visits some of them whether one is a Muslim or not. Besides, this type is, in a sense, unique. Also they are very cheap compared to the others.
Most mosque-type shoes are for men, but I have seen them in all sizes and very cheap, too, from our point of view. But it is the folk-type which caught my eye today. You do not see them in the stores that are scattered about in this district or in the rather extended “down-town” shopping sections which are not too far away. They have their own type of inlay and coloring, and I have not examined them closely. What I did do is to price them and I got out of buying for two quite legitimate reasons! I did not have with me either your address or that of certain female cousins to whom I may send some. I also have some foot outlines, but will have to look to see which lady friends these are from, outside the cousins.
Last week I went down to the bazaar section to buy but not only am I temporarily up on my limit of money but even more so on my time and more on my time than money. So it may be several weeks before I do anything. Besides none of the stores or bazaar-shops had all the types I would select.
As the prices run roughly from about $1 to $2.50, a packet of four or five pairs may be sent under the $10 limit. I do not know at the moment how or what to select, but my present intention is to someday send a package to you. Roughly speaking I should like one pair for permanent display, one pair (provided they fit) for Leonora Martin and one pair for your good self. This, of course, is indeterminate. I have not at the moment compared the foot outlines which I have—which seem typically American—with the sizes of the ladies’ shoes seen in the bazaars, and I am, course, writing some time ahead of any shipment.
Both from the folk-art and general art point of view I think these shoes may be interesting, although they may not come up to expectations of other shoes.
I have also done my first sampling of Arab clothing for myself, which again, is part of folk-art effort. The man’s gowns may be picturesque, they make good lounging robes, but hardly are adopted to dancing.
I am now glad I did not bring my record player here. This country is not ready for folk dancing, yet. You have to take it on faith that I have met thousands of people and I find that the serious young are more interested in having dancing introduced than the mass. I have received a letter from one Bette Reeve of Mill Valley whose mother was my first dancing partner, that there is a move to introduce folk dancing as a counter-effort to subversive espionage. I am all in favor of it, but you can’t do it en masse here through any YMCA. This would attract a limited clientele.
The Whirling Dervishes here are of a low order, other dervishes, whom we entirely ignore, are great in number and contain very high-class members, including large segments of the leading scientists and apprentices in engineering and scientific research. TV is just beginning but I could easily get any folk dance team on TV as I stand “in” there. I met the TV director in Cleveland and it is I who am holding back from a studio visit.
I have seen several dervish ceremonies. They have unusual forms of singing, none of which I have ever heard recorded and I am inclined to believe there is a strong Christian influence utterly ignored by book-writers. They also have movements in their ceremonies which are like letters of a dance alphabet and sometimes movements without moving from place. The few Negroes I have been I have seen among them are the most skillful in this and also in the singing, but I think some of the dark-skinned are Sudanese and not true Negroes. I do know that I can tape-record all kinds of things others are not permitted or do not care to see.
Yet it is among the younger of these types that I have found the most cordiality. Recently I did see a large group of un-chaperoned young people trying to have their own folk-dancing in a park. There were no elders around. They may have been Christians for this seems to me unusual for Muslims. But there are plenty of Christians, too, here—I mean among the Egyptians.
For my part the best type of dancing to start off with would be the line and circle dances found from Yugoslavia to this region. There is also some interest in “Latin-American” dancing.
Before Squares could be introduced the shyness of body-touching would have to be overcome, plus the suitable arrangements of calls. Of course our calls themselves are a sort of lingua franca. This subject I shall look into again in Lahore, Pakistan, where there had been a beginning when I was there four years ago.
The folk-dance shoes will also support the kolo-horo type and there is now some infiltration of Syrian influence. The Syrians, though Muslims, do have some folk dances but I have not visited that region and it does not look as if I can with limited finances and tremendous numbers of projects to keep me busy all the time.
Not only that but it looks as if, before the week ends, I shall be drawn into some other matters, extending my lines, so to speak, but so far successfully.
I have sent a copy of this to Kraemer’s, so they can read a little of what is going on—which is very little as to the full report of my full time.
Cordially,
Sam
P.S. I am now writing Leonard on the perils of fame. Fortunately being a dar-veeeesh, they don’t bakshish me so much, but they come after “baraka” which is a rather complex subject, which we translated as “blessings” but the latter word does not connote much. For “baraka” includes magnetism, the supposition of healing or other powers and what not. The shaking of hands is a much greater favor than the bestowal of money; other gifts, however, are welcome. At the present moment I am both mingling with the hoi polloi (something which is not done) and also with the top bananas (something which is known by the European “Orientalists” that I can’t possibly do).
Cairo
January 17, 1961
My dear Peggy:
At last they are off. It was not easy. I hope the package will get across the seas safely. Anyhow it is insured. I have sent three pairs of slippers, three pairs of shoes and. I got them so that each pair would be distinct in color and size, to give you an idea of what they make here. I have also purchased a cheap pair of shoes for myself and am getting another pair made to order, but they are not picturesque.
The Khan-i-Khalili Bazaar district is one of the most delightful in Cairo. You get old smells and sounds and sights but not dirt. It is much more advanced than “Old Cairo” but it is still the centre of folk-art activity, all kinds. I have asked the merchants to include cards and information with the package.
I do not have much time to watch the craftsmen and there is still a long way to go to organize them and to preserve or advance skills of another day. There is also a gap between the traditional and modern, and though it is being filled, this is not true in all lines.
I have selected these shoes without any idea of measurement and also without any idea of disposition. Roughly speaking I hope one pair fits you and I hope one pair fits Leonora Martin, but I don’t know how she can contact you. The others you can exhibit or sell. As I have purchased these at my own risk, this is not business. But if you do sell them, the cost price landed in San Francisco for the sandals is about $1.25 and for the shoes about $4.00. Guide yourself as you will. If you still have them when I return I am willing to take them off your hands, but somehow or other you may have use for them, if for none other than exhibition purposes.
I love leave Cairo on February 16, Port Said on February 20th for Pakistan. My first address there will be c/o Consulate, U.S.A., Karachi. The shoes and indeed all the gifts I purchased from that country arrived safely in the U.S. And I am liable to send you others from there—beaded and such. But you must have that pair I brought to your place and you can judge the value and lasting quality better than I can. The cheapest pair of Pakistani shoes I bought for myself has stood up remarkable well.
I shall have been in this country about 5 1/2 months and I expect to stay at least an equal time in both Pakistan and India, though I do not know how much will be in traveling or how much in one place. My life here is full of adventures, mostly recorded; and on the whole very much better than I had expected, even though at times I seem to have set quite a high mark. Well, whatever those marks, on the whole they have been achieved, though that is another story.
I shall go to the bazaars once more to purchase some things for myself, including, no doubt, an Arab costume. There is also another bazaar nearby where I can use Diner’s Credit Card. I have been using this for meals and had some most enjoyable meals in this part of the world. They have plain cooking in this pension, fancier in the hotels, but not worth the difference. I do not know how many types of clothing I shall collect, but some will be used by me on the trip.
The and above is a different matter. I have included some silver purchases. They are to go to my friend Seth (Silver) Wood, Trade Fair, Sausalito. There are two small pieces, and one larger one. One of the small ones is for Wilma Young, and the two others for Seth.
Buying things is relatively easy here. Shipping is both difficult and expensive, so I am compelled to fill in the niches in my luggage with purchases and some of these will be carried all the way around, and it is a long way to get home, Beside, if, as, and when I get to Penang, Malaya, I know I am going to receive more things. I am assuming I can hold out. My exploits are reported to different person but I have to put them in my diary and can’t write everybody. I have adventures every day.
Of a different nature. The first American I met here was Paul Keim of Berkeley and he has been very helpful—in technical and scientific adventures. He has a tall, white haired secretary, who knows how to be a receptionist and then some. Today I learned she teaches Latin-American dances; as I have to see her anyhow I am going to sound her out in this and related subjects.
Another reason is that two days ago I heard square dance call in Arabic! I was walking through the streets “down town” and was amazed. I have not seen much in that line yet and the traditional public dances have a long way to go. There are also undeveloped dervish dances which, if developed, would be without partners. At the moment I see much more opportunity for kolos than for partner-dances, but one does not know how fast changes may take place here. Certainly music is developing at a fast rate.
I have to see the Director of TV here who is a good friend of mine and I may sound him out. Satchmo Armstrong is expected here any day but will not remain and doubt whether his visit heard will have any effect on the Egyptians. Worse, I expect to read wide-spread and useless news from the States which will be very misleading.
Of course I have all sorts of materials for books and have been off the beaten path, but the unusual is not always welcome and there is plenty of the unusual here.
I hope this you well. No answer is necessary. If you do sell the shoes and make a profit, may be a door will be opened, but that is too far away. I can only guess at their reception. I am, however, sincerely and seriously interested in markets for Pakistani shoes in the States.
Cordially
Samuel L. Lewis
Address February 26-March 10
U.S. Consulate, Karachi, Pakistan
Then K-482, Old Kunj St.
c/o Abdul Rahman, Abbottabad, Hazara, West Pakistan
Lewis Visits Franciscan Fathers
On Monday, January 23, Sam Lewis, wandering Mariner, called at the church of the Assumption of Our Lady which is the headquarters of the Franciscan Fathers in Cairo, UAR. As one who was born within a few yards of the Mission Dolores in San Francisco, Sam has always had a warm affection for this Order, which he shares with many people of this region.
The meeting with the Fathers was both pleasant and informative. They must speak at least English, French and Latin to enter this monastery; and generally know German, Greek and sometimes Italian or Spanish. They must be conversant with Arabic and Coptic before they leave.
The monks are engaged in research, literary, archaeological and liturgy. Much attention is paid to the part that Mother Mary plays in church services, theology and in Christian life generally. This requires a study into the whole field of Coptic religion and culture. Studies are made in early Christianity, its literature and its institutions.
The tradition is that St. Mark established Christianity in Egypt and in a certain manner he is the patron saint of the region. But the Holy Family is said to have stopped in a place just adjacent to old Cairo where there is a little shrine.
The Franciscan Fathers came here in the early days of their order and have a continuous history since the thirteenth century. They are thus the oldest Christian institution here other than those groups which were developed in Egypt; i.e. the Copts. During this time some Copts and other Oriental Christians have acceded to Rome, maintaining their language in the Church Service and sometime a few of their earlier customs but adhering to the theology of the Roman Catholic Church.
The Church of the Assumption of our Lady operates for the benefit of the Fathers and Brothers and they do not operate any school other than for their specialized studies. The Dominican Fathers specialize in the relation of Christianity to Islam which visit may be forthcoming.
Lewis also passed two synagogues in this region. Ones was in the European manner and was closed. The other was a Sephardic synagogue. This was established when the Jewish people were exiled from Spain and sought refuge here. It has been in continuous operation. The prayer book and the architecture are of the universal Sephardic pattern—though this is not well known to those who are not specialists.
San Lewis reports from Cairo that all his principal missions have, in a sense, come to fulfillment and he is writing out lengthy reports with the hope that they may assist in promoting relations between the United States and the Arabic world. So far all his efforts have been encouraged by both the UAR government and the Agricultural and State Departments of the United States.
The selection of Adlai Stevenson as delegate to the UN is with general approval abroad. This man is one of the most popular Americans in all Asia. Sam says: “I was never for Stevenson for President. I always granted him to be our delegate to the UN and think he is in the post for which he is most suited.”
On Sunday, January 22nd Sam attended a football (soccer) game between Cairo and Alexandria. The Cairo team won. “The passing of these players was excellent. No one on the winning team tried to be a hero. There were few long runs, there was excellent passing and coordination, much like that of some of our better basket-ball teams. The stadium, the audience and the behavior was about the same as one meets with anywhere. Lewis thinks that UAR needs more sports, but not necessarily better players; they have them.